Clothes, Fashion accessories, Jewelry
Since the 2012 arrival of Hedi Slimane at Yves Saint Laurent, the artistic director of the Kering-owned fashion house has always had a hand in the couture activity, that is, creating one-of-a-kind dresses for customers or special "friends", celebrities or not. But until now the House hadnt recognised this work or these pieces with a particular label. In fact, they didnt even carry a label.
For the reopening of its couture workshops on Paris Rue de l’Université, in the completely renovated Hôtel Sénecterre, and as if to celebrate the latest fantastic financial results reported this Monday, the House has decided to apply the couture label to these creations.
"There are no plans for a haute couture runway show," said a spokesperson for Maison Saint Laurent, "not in the classical sense.” However, from now on all couture pieces will bear the couture label, and be labelled and registered by the labels head seamstress.
A move judged to be even more "exclusive" than a haute couture runway show, according to Yves Saint Laurent.To mark this decision, photos were posted on the brands website of models at the Rue de l’Université offices. In black and white and of course very chic.
Taken in June by Hedi Slimane, they are the incarnation of the labels new couture and institutional campaign, which has been baptised "rue de lUniversité".
"This campaign constitutes a cornerstone of the Houses project for reform launched by Hedi upon his arrival in 2012 and the balance that has been recovered between the Couture spirit, the "Yves Saint Laurent" House, and contemporary, revitalised style of the "Saint Laurent" ready-to-wear collections," points out the House.
It is thus a way of marking the latest financial results published by Kering for the labels first half-year.
For the period, Yves Saint Laurent recorded an impressive increase in revenue (+38.2% in published figures and +24.3% on a comparable scale) with an acceleration in the second quarter.
Revenue for directly-owned stores (64% of sales) increased 25.7% for the term, mostly carried by strong growth in established stores.
All of the main product categories also showed strong growth across all the geographic zones.
Health, Medical Devices
The field of technical innovation for medical devices in France is made of hundreds of startup, small and medium companies. But not big ones yet.
« Medium companies are today’s France real champions (like Vygon), and we also have very innovative small companies (like Eos Imaging or Mauna Kea Technologies)», tells Florent Surugue, SMEs and economic development manager at Snitem in this interview with Business France Radio.
Founded in 1987, Snitem is the first professional organisation representing the French medical devices and technological innovation market, carrying between 85 and 100% of the market in terms of turnover, bringing all together more than 375 companies, defending their interests on the market and helping them develop abroad.
« This market is mostly made of small and medium companies (89% of companies are under 250 people within the members of Snitem) », as Florent Surugue recalls in this interview. And his dream is to see these startups grow into small then medium than large businesses.
How could they do that? French companies’ main assets are their capacity «to develop very innovative products » and Florent Surugue is convinced that they « have the ability to show that they can create a strong value » to the French and global market. But according to him, the French market is very hard to enter right now due to strong barriers in terms of market access and these startups should start looking for a development abroad very soon in their development process.
Further information : SNITEMFrench companies on You Buy France, sector of Health and medical device
Chanel has revealed a new face of the brand: the 16 year-old daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp. From the moment Lily-Rose walked the runway for Chanel at the NYC Fashion Week in April 2015, there were rumors that she would land a major campaign for the brand. Now Chanel has confirmed that Lily-Rose will be the face of its fall 2015 eyewear collection, Pearl.
Karl Lagerfeld described Lily-Rose as "stunning, shes a young girl from a new generation with all the qualities of a star," implying that she may well follow in the footsteps of her mother", who has been an ambassador for Chanel since 1990.
The Pearl advertising campaign featuring Lily-Rose Depp will be launched in September 2015.
US actresses Kristen Stewart and Julianne Moore played roulette in Karl Lagerfelds celebrity-studded runway casino Tuesday where the fashion legend used 3D printing for a futuristic version of the classic Chanel suit.
In a typically elaborate staging, last year he recreated a Parisian bistro on the runway, Lagerfeld showed his first of two couture collections at Paris Fashion Week, with his all-fur production for Fendi on Wednesday seen as the highlight of the five-day fashion extravaganza. British singer Rita Ora, French singer Vanessa Paradis and her daughter with Johnny Depp, Lily-Rose, were also featured as high rollers sat around roulette tables in the centre of the runway.
Slot machines circled the perimetre of the muted, cosy room where models in sharply-cut black bobs, with bright lipstick and thickly-spread blush took to the runway in an atmosphere of the heady 1920s.
The iconic Chanel suit sported square-cut shoulders and boxy jackets, appearing three dimensional thanks to a technique called selective laser sintering which Lagerfeld used to take the look into the 21st century.
The technique sees a laser aimed into space where it binds powdered material according to a 3D model, creating a solid structure.
"The idea is to take the most iconic jacket of the 20th century and make a 21st century version, which technically was unimaginable in the period when it was born," Lagerfeld told AFP after the show.
"The vest is one piece, there is no sewing, it is moulded." The Chanel designer said the technique "widens haute couture" and would be used more and more in the future.
"What keeps couture alive, is to move with the times. If it stays like sleeping beauty in the woods in an ivory tower, you can forget it," he said.
"The women who buy couture today are not the bourgeoises of the past, they are young, modern women."
The haute couture designation is protected by French law and attributed exclusively by the ministry of industry to 14 houses whose clothes are entirely made by hand and tailored to each client.
Lagerfelds dresses had layered skirts or a high-low hem, short in the front and long in the back, and as seen in several other collections this week, grazed ankles and necklines plunged nearly to the navel.
One dress was almost entirely made out of feathers, with a gold collar.
The show was capped by US model Kendall Jenner as the Chanel bride in a white trouser suit with a long bridal train.
- On another planet -
Lagerfeld said his modern clients were also a lot richer than when Coco Chanel first started out, when mostly women from America or South America would fly to Paris to see couture collections.
"Today it is private jets that transport clothes for women to try on around the globe. At Chanel we have four haute couture workshops with hundreds of workers: they are always snowed under. "It is a clientele which doesnt show itself, which doesnt come to the runway shows, they live on another planet," said Lagerfeld.
He said his decor was inspired by "the ambiance of casinos at a time when people dressed up."
"They didnt appear to try and win to pay the rent at the end of the month. Today casinos are a bit more dreary because people no longer get dolled up."
On Wednesday the indefatigable Lagerfeld, 81, will unveil a collection celebrating his 50 years with Italys Fendi, which has hailed the "longest relationship between a designer and a fashion house."
The show will be entirely "haute fourrure" or couture fur, a material the luxury fashion brand has never shied away from.
French film icon and ardent animal rights activist Brigitte Bardot has already registered her disapproval by writing a letter to Choupette Lagerfeld, the designers pampered feline companion.
Bardot appealed to the cat, who has become famous with 48,000 Twitter followers, to "purr in the ear" of her master and save her "furry friends".
Givenchy is heading to New York for a season. The French luxury house will leave behind the Paris catwalks in September to show in New York. The label will be celebrating its first flagship in the Big Apple as well as "the constant rise its activity in the United States," Givenchy said in a press release.
The runway show will take place on 11 September during New York Fashion Week, scheduled for 10 to 17 September. Givenchy will be unveiling its spring/summer 2016 collection. The brand will be back in Paris for the showing of its fall/winter 2016-17 collection.The New York show will be followed by a big party that will also celebrate Riccardo Tiscis 10-year anniversary at the brand as it its artistic director.
The couture house, held by the LVMH group, will at the end of August be opening a nearly 5,000 ft² space at 747 Madison Avenue on 65th Street, the appointment of which was thought up under the supervision of Riccardo Tisci.
It will be the second Givenchy store in the US, with the first one being in Miami. Actually, its more of a comeback to New York, since Givenchy already had a store on Madison Avenue which it closed in 2006.
The label, whose revenue is estimated at around 400 million euros, is looking to expand in the American market by strengthening its wholesale distribution there and opening more points of sale.
Givenchy is also getting ready to open a series of stores in the major fashion capitals of the world, starting with Milan, which will open in September as well, at the heart of the luxury sector on Via SantAndrea. Next up on the agenda will be Rome and London.
French authorities gave the go-ahead Friday to renovate the iconic former Parisian department store La Samaritaine on the River Seine, ending years of legal wrangling over the historic site.
Perched on the right bank of the Seine, the hulking store occupies some of the most expensive real estate in Paris but was shut down in 2005 when it ran afoul of health and safety regulations. Efforts to redevelop the site have hit several snags, notably over plans by Japanese architecture firm Sanaa to build a massive undulating glass facade over a part of the building, which is now owned by luxury brands company LVMH.
But on Friday the State Council, Frances highest legal body, gave a green light to the renovation project, saying it "did not break" local planning regulations.
LVMH, which owns brands such as Louis Vuitton -- plans to turn the complex, including the main building and three adjacent properties, into a five-star hotel, offices, shops and flats at a cost of some 460 million euros ($520 million).
Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo welcomed the decision, saying it would create 4,400 jobs.
"By 2018, all Parisians and visitors will be able to visit this new exceptional site, which will contain shops, a hotel, low-cost housing, a creche and offices," said Hidalgo in a statement.
Critics complained the design would be an eyesore, ruining the glorious banks of the River Seine, and heritage groups filed a complaint over the design plans.
In May 2014 a court cancelled one of the renovation permits, saying the glass wall "clashed" with the look of the other buildings in the area.
The administrative appeals court then upheld the cancellation of the permit, saying the new building "did not comply with the obligation to fit the planned construction into its urban surroundings."
- Novelties shop -
La Samaritaine, a Paris landmark, had its golden age during the 1930s at the height of the Art Deco era but went into decline for the last 30 years of its existence.
It had its start in 1870, when Ernest Cognacq, a hawker from the west coast of France, opened a small "novelties" shop on the banks of the Seine.
He called it La Samaritaine (the Samaritan woman) after a pump on the nearby Pont Neuf whose facade depicted Christ and the woman of Samaria at Jacobs Well, as recounted in the Bible.
He would later buy up adjoining buildings until the store covered 70,000 square metres (750,000 square feet).
However the business piled up losses and in 2001 was bought by LVMH, owned by Frances richest man Bernard Arnault.
He was forced to shut it down after a police report said the whole art deco structure needed to be urgently renovated to replace antiquated electrical circuits, malfunctioning smoke extraction systems and flammable wooden flooring.
The renovated Samaritaine was supposed to have opened in 2013 but this has been pushed back several times.
Pimkie is aiming to offer a shopping service directly in hotel rooms. The French retailer has launched an original initiative with the agency Happiness Brussels: the "Mini Fashion Bar". The concept: a kind of apparel minibar located in hotel wardrobes, with products that can be bought immediately.
More specifically, Pimkie offers three looks suitable for the city and the current season, for several occasions (trench coat for rain, walking shoes, an evening dress…) in the hopes that hotel clients will be inspired to purchase an outfit they love or need, or if they’re missing something in their suitcase. The hotel can provide all the necessary sizes, and, like a mini-bar, will charge for clothes bought at the end of the stay.
Pimkie is targeting trendy and fashionable cities and hotels that are somewhat upmarket, although not luxury, offering a range of services that are developed enough so that hotel room shopping will be a natural fit. In order to allow for easy purchasing, prices will remain identical to those in stores and will therefore be accessible.
Having tested out the project at the Banks hotel in Antwerp in April, the new project has been successful enough for the retailer to plan on bringing the concept to other European fashion cities, starting with Paris. Pimkie is awaiting confirmation from a Parisian hotel to move forward with the operation in September.
UBIFRANCE, the French agency for international business developement, comes under the aegis of France's Ministry for the Economy, Industry & Employment. UBIFRANCE lies at the heart of France's public-sector export support framework.